Weg damit!!!!


This is all the California emissions stuff -- vacuum hoses, charcoal cannister, fuel separator, three-way valve. Removing it saves just over three pounds. I can't claim performance gains, but maintenance is easier without all this stuff in the way. (Very handy at the race track, which is the only place I'd ever consider running without emissions equipment.) Next time I've got the gas tank and airbox off, I'll take a picture of what it looks like without all this stuff. This photo will show how I rerouted hoses and sealed up holes.
I did notice a smoother, lower idle, and better throttle response after removing this stuff, but that may also be due to richening up the pilot jets, which I did at the same time. Gas mileage has dropped a bit as a result of the pilot jet richening and removal of the charcoal cannister/fuel separator.

How to:

Remove:
the tubes from the two right nipples on the gas tank.
all tubes from the intake vacuum nipples.
the large hose on the bottom of the airbox. (This is from the charcoal cannister.)
the two hoses from the valve cover. (These connect to the three-way valve.)
the hose that comes from the ram-air intakes. Don't remove the Y junction or the plastic blob with the screen inside. Pull off the hose just behind this plastic blob.
the hose that leads from the three-way valve to the forward side of the carbs. (This pressurizes the float bowls.)
Plug up the middle (red dot) nipple on the gas tank. Route a vent tube from the right (blue dot) nipple on the gas tank out the left side of the bike (alongside the other vent hose from the left nipple). Make sure you use fuel line, and not vacuum hose or heater hose or something else that will get eaten by gasoline.
Put vacuum caps over all the intake vacuum nipples. (I got rubber ones from an auto-parts store, and cut them to the proper length.)
Plug up the large hole in the bottom of the airbox. (I used bevelled neoprene plumbing washers at both ends, with a bolt through the middle to clamp the washers together, and plenty of silicon sealant/gasket maker to ensure a good seal.)
Plug up the holes in the valve cover. (I used the same plumbing washer technique here as I did on the airbox. It seems to stand up to the heat, but I'm going to cut some sheet metal to the appropriate shape and sandwich it between the aluminum plate and the valve cover.)
Connect the ram-air intake hoses (just behind the plastic blob) to the hose leading to the front of the carbs. (I used two different diameters of heater hose from the hardware store. The larger diameter hose fit perfectly around the base of the plastic blob, and the smaller diameter hose fit perfectly inside the larger hose and perfectly over the hose leading to the carbs. I put some hose clamps on the junctions just to be safe, though.)